A table saw tapering jig is pretty handy to have around the shop to not only make tapers but to also joint an edge on a board.
measures 12″ by 40″
If you are a woodworker then have have built some kind of project where a miter joint needed to be re-enforced for strength. If your looking for something different then maybe a locking mitre is the answer your looking for. This joint will add tons of strength to your miter but it is pretty tricky to do. I think you would only want to do a joint like this if the top part of the miter is visible so that at least your hard work can be seen because there are easier ways to strengthen a miter if not.
To get started, install a 1/4″ dado stack set to 1/4″ high in the table saw. then set your fence precisely to the thickness of your material. The best way to do this is by using the material as a reference, instead of actually measuring it.
Next set the blade height to the thickness of your material. Again it is much better to reference your material instead of using a measuring tape.
Then set your fence to the inside of the dado (as shown in the pictures)
Then you can go ahead and cut your dado by using an auxiliary fence on your table saw. By using an auxiliary fence this allows for much more support because you’re running your workpiece on its end. I also included a piece of scrap material behind the workpiece to prevent chip out.
after your first two dados have been cut, your work pieces should line up like in the picture above.
Set your dado stack to the height of the top of your long dado (picture above)and set your fence to “0” so you can cut a rabbit.
With an auxiliary fence, cut the 1/4″ rabbit.
As you can see in the picture above, the long tenon has to be trimmed to the length of the dado and the two mitres have to be cut on the top.
I decided to cut the mitres first because this allowed me to creep up on the length of the tenon to get a good fit. The picture above shows how to use the auxiliary fence to support the workplace as it goes through the table saw.
Here I cut the second miter by, again using the auxiliary fence to support the work piece.
As you can see from the above picture, with the mitres cut I can now creep up on my tenon length to get a perfect fit.
And as easy as that, your done! Mine didn’t turn out absolutely perfect, but not bad. I think after doing it a few time, it would probably get easier. I’m not sure if I would ever feel the need to do a joint like this but it definitely was good practise for table saw accuracy.
I finally have finished the plans for the slot mortisers and i’m very excited to see what you guys think. I’m currently offering the plans for free in exchange for some feedback. Weather you build it or not I would love for you to look over the plan and let me know what you think. If you do build it, let me know if there are any mistakes or improvements to be made. You can leave me a comment here on the web page or you can email me at email@example.com. I would appreciate if you could leave feedback comments about the plans off the youtube channel. There will be a full build series on my youtube channel here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2RQcClMWeh4&list=TLsTv2Luh5nm8D6OoWyiRUtjrJ2zx-4NNR
there will also be a full website article to come as well.
I recommend the sketch up version because you can pan camera and even edit plans to your liking:
sketch up version: slot mortiser plan download.
PDF version: slot mortiser plans download
You’ll need the latest version of sketch up to view. You can download a free version here: http://www.sketchup.com/?gclid=CjwKEAjw2f2hBRCdg76qqNXfkCsSJABYAycP0P-LgB7o4aqypKN77zAFhdkvYdxLyqwaSyYQLYoYnxoC1_3w_wcB
If you watch woodworking videos on YouTube then you probably know about Matthias Wandel and his slot mortiser. Matthias really come up with an amazing design that incorporates a lead screw and a incremented hand wheel that allows you to precisely adjust the cutter to correct height. Matthias machine, even though not exactly what I wanted to build, gave hope that it was possible to build a bench top domino.
When coming up with a design I had one thing in the mind, quick set-up. I knew if there was any fiddling or math to get a good result it would sit in corner while I find a simpler way of doing it. So with that in mind the domino has reference marks and indexing pins so guess what my mortiser will have.Easier said than done…
To use reference marks would mean the work piece must be moveable instead of the router. So how to you move the table up and down without any unwanted slop? I didn’t get this the first try…
I thought about this long and hard and decided to go with a scissor lift. The next hurdle was x and y movement. Keeping a small foot print in mind cause I want to be able to store it away and easily be able to put it on the bench when needed I ruled out drawer slides for the left and right movement simply cause of length, but for the in and out they would work just fine. My first idea for the left and right movement I went to the domino again for inspiration and decided on a router mount that swiveled on a bearing giving a range of about 2″.
I should mention that as the ideas come I would make a rough sketch up diagram. So from that I started building and it was an epic fail. There was all kind of issues but mainly the scissor lift (made from aluminum ) was just to lose and made a rough inaccurate mortise. And the bearing mount for the swivel was also to sloppy with no real way to tighten it up. Back to the drawing board.
I ended stumbling on the inclined plane height adjustment by staring at my failed mortiser. The table side supports had tapers cut into them basically for appearance and at that moment it came to me that if I make a mating taper and sliding it back and forth it would raise and lower my table WITH lots of support underneath it.
It was kind of a eureka moment but still had lots of question whether it would work. As for the left and right movement I scraped the swivel all together and decided on first a bushing and rod set up but then a drawer slide.
I figure at this point I would just go at it in the shop and see how it goes and from this point on everything seem to just fall into place. It did take a lot of shop time to get a final product but in the end I think it was worth it.
Quick, very quick as far as a tool used to make floating tenons, it perfect. Sense having in the shop I tend to find other uses for to. If I need any slot at all, I want ro use it just cause it is so quick to set up.
Cheap to build, about a 1/3 of a sheet of plywood
Small foot print takes little space compared to other mortisers
Easily remove the router if need else where, just a 5/16 nut driver and comes right out
Clean accurate slots.
Fun to make!!
Short left to right motion, travel is only about 3″ which is a sacrifice made to keep the foot print small but could be easily modified if you wanted.
Shallow depth of cut, due to the small cutters(1/4, 5/16, 3/8) you can only get about 1 1/2″ deep
Dust, no real way to collect dust