Mortise and tenon and the X-carve

One of the first things I wanted to try on the X carve was to cut a mortise and tenon. I actually have had the X carve for a while now and And finally got a chance to give it a try. I knew because I was going to have to cut the end of my material, I would have to cut a hole in my waist board to accommodate the length. because I would be cutting the material on its end, I would also need a way to hold the material in place. So if I was going to make a jig or fixture, I figured I might as well make it so it will also hold the material for the mortise as well.

Rip plywood to size and add rabbit for T-track

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I started out by ripping some plywood to 3 inch strips and 1 and a half inch strips, The 3 inch strips will make up the bottom portion and the inch and a half strips will be used for the top. I then decided to cut rabbits on all the strips before I glued them together this saves me from cutting dadoes later, just a little quicker.

Glue each section together

 

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Once all the rabbits were cut I could then glue the 3 inch strips to the inch and a half strips, making sure the rabbits are aligned

Screw the two sections tougher and add support

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I then screwed the first section to the second section creating a T-shape. I then used a small piece of scrap material to make a corner brace and screwed it into place making sure the jig is kept square.

Screw T- track to fixture

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Then I could screw the T- track into each groove. I did this by drilling holes along the bottom of the      T-track and countersinking the holes for the screws

Cut out section of waste board

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Now it is time to cut a section out of the waste bored. I use the CNC itself for this task as this allows me to align the fixture with the cut line, ensuring that the jig is in line with the machine. The hole I cut out measures 2″ x 8″

Add block to the bottom of the waste board

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I screwed a block to the bottom of the waste board to allow for more support and also another place to clamp to if necessary.

Attach the fixture

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I held the fixture in place by using the hold down clamps and making sure it is in line with the hole I cut with the router.

clamp the material to the fixture

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Next I could clamp the material into place by using hold down clamps and T bolts in the T track. I was careful to make sure that the material is square to the table in both directions

Draw the mortise and tenon

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I drew a simple tenon in sketch up by just drawing a square the same size as my material and then drawing the proper size mortise in the middle

Load tenon into easel

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I then loaded the tenon into easel. And then make sure the tenon is cut out on the “outside path” and the outside of the material is cut out “on path” It is also important to make sure the outside portion is cut first. This is down by selecting edit and then going to “bring forward” a few time until its all the way forward.

Load mortise into easel

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I then load the mortise into easel. Here you want to make sure the tenon part is set to “fill” and the outside portion has a depth of cut of zero. You also need to turn the whole thing 90 degrees. here you may need to add to the thickness of the tenon by adding some width. I find with loading SVGs from sketch up, when ever you use the “fill” it cuts it about 25 thousands to small. So in easel under the shape tab, I add the 25 thousands. Another important note is to make sure your position is set to 0,0 that way you know to position the centre of the bit right at the corner of the material.

Position the bit

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Next we need to position the bit to the very corner of the material. This is because we set the drawing right at 0,0 in easel.

Cut the tenon

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Finally we can cut the tenon we want to make sure that the outside is cut first and then the inside cut second. If it cut the inside first, you would only be left with small conners which would just break off if you tried to cut the outside second.

Cut the mortise

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Next we position the bit for the mortise by making a mark of the thickness of our material and aligning the center of the bet with that Mark and the edge of the board. We can then go ahead and cut the mortise.




Test the fit

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Finally we can tester fit and if it is a slightly snug, fit then you are good to go!!

 

 

X carve made router lift

Dowload plans and easel file here: https://www.inventables.com/projects/mini-router-lift

Cut the components out using easel   

Open up the easel file and click file, copy project. Then you can delete all but one component and carve it out. I recommend doing it this way instead of carving all at once so you can check accuracy in between each operation.

Attach V wheels and Deleon nut

  




I first took the V-wheel mounting plate and attached two side pieces to either side using screws. Then Attach all four V-wheels using the M5 socket head bolts with 2 washer to allow for the proper clearance. I used T-nuts here so you won’t need a wrench when adjusting the rollers. then screw the delrin nut in place.head bolts with 2 washer to allow for the proper clearance.

Adjust roller

 

You can adjust the rollers by prying them over in the slotted holes with a flat head screw driver, making sure the are tight to the maker slide. Then go ahead and tighten down all the v-wheel bolts.

Attach the front plate


First attach the router clamp to the front plate using screws and glue from the back. Then you can attach the front plate to the carriage with screws.

Seating the lead screw

 

First sandwich the flanged bearing in-between two nylon nuts at the top of the 4 1/2″ long M8 lead screw. Then it can be hammered into place on the top plate.

Attach top plate

 

The top plate can be attached to the maker rail by using two self tapping screws. then you can screw the lead screw into the delrin nut.

Attach the support legs

 
The support legs are attached to the maker sides via two socket head M5 bolts and two T-nuts. Then it is screw two the top plate.

Adding the router clamp support

First cut out the support using a table saw or band saw. Then making sure that the router clamp is square to the front plate, you can attach the support using screws. Next drill a hole at the bottom of the front plate that lines up with the maker slide T-track. Here a T-nut and M5 hex bolt can be used for the lock.

Attach the top and make a fence

 


Finally you can attach the lift to your router table, or make one and share with us!!!